After some extensive search, I found some M2.5 standoffs. I bought 15mm, 20mm and 25mm. I used the 15mm long ones.
I used the original bolts on top to hold the lens assembly to housing securely. I left the ring on the lens and slid it down so it is blocking any light passing though the gap.
The results speak for themselves:
Perfectly square and stable image. It is not moving or shaking every time I bump the table.
That last one is of the focused projector.
Showing posts with label spacers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label spacers. Show all posts
Thursday, October 6, 2011
Monday, August 15, 2011
Mounting the Dell 5100MP
A little more progress made. I have mounted the projector to the frame.
Supplies:
Washers 18mm x 1mm M6 - 10pcs.
Socket wrench + 10mm socket.
Screwdriver ( No, not the one with the Orange Juice! It is too early to drink! ) depending on the M3 bolt heads.
M3 x 25mm bolts - 3pcs.
M6x20mm bolts - 3pcs.
Standoffs - 18mm x M4 - 3pcs.
For the purpose I dug up an old aluminum heat sink (120mm X 150mm) , but you can use an aluminum flat piece 4mm thick and with a proper size for your projector mounting holes. Disregard the 90 Degree bend.
The easiest way ( since projector manufacturers do not provide you with a bolt pattern like water heater manufacturers do) to create and transfer the mounting hole location is on a piece of paper. Mark the hole locations and attach with tape to plate ( after you center it, of course ), and drill the holes ( in my case on the 5100MP they are 3mm ) a little bigger ( 3.2mm ) than the bolts to be used. Check for fit. Check that no vent or air holes are blocked ( read further below and you will see ).
Then drill holes for the bracket to frame bolts 6mm ( similarly a little bigger that the bolt size 6.2mm).
As in the post about the Power supply, get more washers than just needed ( these are also 18mm, but for the M6 bolts ) and M6x20mm bolts.
I used 3 M6 in a horizontal pattern - did not follow some specific distance between them, just two near the end and one in the middle.
As seen I had to add spacers, because the mounting plate covered a vent hole on the bottom of the projector and also to clear the washers and nuts used to mount the plate to the frame.
I had to also countersink the M3 x 25mm bolts a little(2mm)with a 5mm drill bit, so they screw in further in the projector frame and I have a more secure projector-plate connection.
And the end result looks like this:
Nicely done! Now you can get that screwdriver with Absolute.
Supplies:
Washers 18mm x 1mm M6 - 10pcs.
Socket wrench + 10mm socket.
Screwdriver ( No, not the one with the Orange Juice! It is too early to drink! ) depending on the M3 bolt heads.
M3 x 25mm bolts - 3pcs.
M6x20mm bolts - 3pcs.
Standoffs - 18mm x M4 - 3pcs.
For the purpose I dug up an old aluminum heat sink (120mm X 150mm) , but you can use an aluminum flat piece 4mm thick and with a proper size for your projector mounting holes. Disregard the 90 Degree bend.
The easiest way ( since projector manufacturers do not provide you with a bolt pattern like water heater manufacturers do) to create and transfer the mounting hole location is on a piece of paper. Mark the hole locations and attach with tape to plate ( after you center it, of course ), and drill the holes ( in my case on the 5100MP they are 3mm ) a little bigger ( 3.2mm ) than the bolts to be used. Check for fit. Check that no vent or air holes are blocked ( read further below and you will see ).
Then drill holes for the bracket to frame bolts 6mm ( similarly a little bigger that the bolt size 6.2mm).
As in the post about the Power supply, get more washers than just needed ( these are also 18mm, but for the M6 bolts ) and M6x20mm bolts.
I used 3 M6 in a horizontal pattern - did not follow some specific distance between them, just two near the end and one in the middle.
As seen I had to add spacers, because the mounting plate covered a vent hole on the bottom of the projector and also to clear the washers and nuts used to mount the plate to the frame.
I had to also countersink the M3 x 25mm bolts a little(2mm)with a 5mm drill bit, so they screw in further in the projector frame and I have a more secure projector-plate connection.
And the end result looks like this:
Nicely done! Now you can get that screwdriver with Absolute.
Labels:
DLP,
DLP Printer,
plate,
projector,
projector mount,
spacers
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