Happy New Year to ALL!
Long time no updates. Guilty, but, BUT Here is a WIP Flash curing hardening of the resin printed objects:
Cheers!
3 D L P rint
DIY 3D DLP Printer using UV/Vis sensitive resins.
Sunday, January 13, 2013
Sunday, March 4, 2012
Adhesive backing FEP Teflon film
Hi all and again thanks to Ahmet ( from the Yahoo group )for sending a sample to me.
I have tested extensively the Adhesive backing FEP Teflon and am abandoning that
route for now. It seems to have the same problem as straight
polycarbonate/nylon/Polyethylene. It is difficult to separate the resin ( at
least mine )without it actually coming off the glass base. You could be using a
different resin with different results, but for my purposes it does not work.
Cheers!
I have tested extensively the Adhesive backing FEP Teflon and am abandoning that
route for now. It seems to have the same problem as straight
polycarbonate/nylon/Polyethylene. It is difficult to separate the resin ( at
least mine )without it actually coming off the glass base. You could be using a
different resin with different results, but for my purposes it does not work.
Cheers!
Yellow Resin Dye
Hey All,
I have tested a few dyes and have settled on one that
proved most universal. Like many other people have mentioned it here before:
Castin' Craft dye from Environmental Technologies Inc - eti-usa.com
The only difference is the color - Opaque Yellow.
I have tried the transparent amber, yellow, blue, green.
Also I have tested Opaque red and yellow. The latter proved a good absorber or
the UV/NUV/Blue spectra per volume. It was able to limit the polymerization to a
very predictable depth no matter the exposure time. As per the instructions: use
1oz per 32oz or roughly 29gr per liter and at $6 an oz, it is perfect.I have
tested it with about 80ml of resin and 2-3ml dye and is fantastic, you have seen
the results.
I have tested a few dyes and have settled on one that
proved most universal. Like many other people have mentioned it here before:
Castin' Craft dye from Environmental Technologies Inc - eti-usa.com
The only difference is the color - Opaque Yellow.
I have tried the transparent amber, yellow, blue, green.
Also I have tested Opaque red and yellow. The latter proved a good absorber or
the UV/NUV/Blue spectra per volume. It was able to limit the polymerization to a
very predictable depth no matter the exposure time. As per the instructions: use
1oz per 32oz or roughly 29gr per liter and at $6 an oz, it is perfect.I have
tested it with about 80ml of resin and 2-3ml dye and is fantastic, you have seen
the results.
Sunday, February 19, 2012
4 Rings – Last night’s Platform…
Last night I decided to test the printer with some new resin I got from Fernando @ http://www.spotamaterials.com/
Here are some photos and I have added them in the "Gallery" Section above.
Here are some photos and I have added them in the "Gallery" Section above.
Wednesday, February 8, 2012
New and Improved Build Base
We start today's post with an update - repairing the damage done by the "Force". I have decided to make it out of Plexiglas or Perspex. I have contacted a local sign/advertizing company willing to cut it out for me and it was ready in a couple of days and in front of my door. I chose to use 10mm clear plexi since it was standard and readily available. I could have asked for a "black-matte", but it would have delayed the order.
Measurements are:
10mm X 60mm X 70mm
10mm X 70mm X 90mm
and I added 8mm holes with 15mm countersinks for M8 X30 bolt head that are 6mm deep with a spacing measured off the Bracket ( Click Here ) in My case 26mm.
I have cut 3 sets should I need to make one fast ;-)
I had tested JB Weld-Regular with some of the cutout pieces from the Plexi. Seems to hold up the Plexi to Plexi. What I was concerned about was the Plexi to Glass.
You can use some 200 sandpaper to rough the glass and plexi mating surfaces and clean them with Aethanol or Isopropyl Alcohol 96% and some no-lint cloth.
After inserting the bolts and spreading a generous amount of JBWeld ( you can clean it up the oozing after it sets for a few hours ).
Follow the instructions for using JB Weld - I placed it in a warm room @25C. Keep the base on a level surface - glass down, as the JB has not set yet. You can use regular tape to keep the two from sliding.
Result is this:
I have tested it with the same resin ( say ~1300 cP@25 )and it seems to hold up very well for now.
This is Life - I hope to not have to redo it AGAIN?! ;-)
Salutations!
Measurements are:
10mm X 60mm X 70mm
10mm X 70mm X 90mm
and I added 8mm holes with 15mm countersinks for M8 X30 bolt head that are 6mm deep with a spacing measured off the Bracket ( Click Here ) in My case 26mm.
I have cut 3 sets should I need to make one fast ;-)
I had tested JB Weld-Regular with some of the cutout pieces from the Plexi. Seems to hold up the Plexi to Plexi. What I was concerned about was the Plexi to Glass.
You can use some 200 sandpaper to rough the glass and plexi mating surfaces and clean them with Aethanol or Isopropyl Alcohol 96% and some no-lint cloth.
After inserting the bolts and spreading a generous amount of JBWeld ( you can clean it up the oozing after it sets for a few hours ).
Follow the instructions for using JB Weld - I placed it in a warm room @25C. Keep the base on a level surface - glass down, as the JB has not set yet. You can use regular tape to keep the two from sliding.
Result is this:
I have tested it with the same resin ( say ~1300 cP@25 )and it seems to hold up very well for now.
This is Life - I hope to not have to redo it AGAIN?! ;-)
Salutations!
Friday, January 20, 2012
Seems most of you have not seen it
Please look up next to the "About me" and "Other 3D printers" pages - There it is. It's a new section "GALLERY".
Hope you like it.
Hope you like it.
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