New Video - 4 rings

New video of the 4 rings platform:

Seems most of you have not seen it

Please look up next to the "About me" and "Other 3D printers" pages - There it is. It's a new section "GALLERY".
Hope you like it.

First Fully Printed Object

I know I made an announcement and here is the start:

This is the first completely printed object at @43 microns in X and Y. The Z resolution is @25 microns.
The first layer of the base is 200 microns and 9 more layers @ 100 microns @ 8 seconds exposure to over cure the resin so it sticks to the glass better.

The time it took to print it is 2h 45m. It has about 1250 layers including the base, so speed is about 15mm per hour @25 microns.
There is a slight elongation defect since NO vertical compensation was applied and I need more supports. The moment that the inner supports started printing there is a stair step like defect.
It is smooth to the touch and as strong as the plastic from the videos.
It has not been post-cured. I took it off the printer and dropped it in Ethanol 95% - "Spiritus Aethylicus" - and stirred it around. After 10 min it was squeaky clean AND Disinfected LOL.

Went to bed last night @02:00 leaving this:

Only to wake up @6:30 with a result like so:

There are absolutely no problems with the New Build Base ( there will be a post about it ). It held strong and did not see any flex. Once I scraped the excess resin off and wiped most residue off it looks like this:

In the aethanol 95% it goes for 10 min whirl around. I used a small glass jar I had around.

 Here are the macro photos:

A close up of the slices:

Here is the link to the album with different photos:

3DLPrint - Ring Album

Hope you come back soon for more...

3D Printer DLP Cured UV Resin properties

This is a video of the physical properties of some pieces that were printed and post cured.
 

3D Printer DLP Printing with UV resin...

What can I say? The title pretty much gave it away...

It's an early Christmas Present...

Questions will be partially answered after 27th and fully after New Years!

Mounting the Dell 5100MP

A little more progress made. I have mounted the projector to the frame.

Supplies:

Washers 18mm x 1mm M6 - 10pcs.

Socket wrench + 10mm socket.

Screwdriver ( No, not the one with the Orange Juice! It is too early to drink! ) depending on the M3 bolt heads.

M3 x 25mm bolts - 3pcs.

M6x20mm bolts - 3pcs.

Standoffs - 18mm x M4 - 3pcs.

For the purpose I dug up an old aluminum heat sink (120mm X 150mm) , but you can use an aluminum flat piece 4mm thick and with a proper size for your projector mounting holes. Disregard the 90 Degree bend.

The easiest way ( since projector manufacturers do not provide you with a bolt pattern like water heater manufacturers do) to create and transfer the mounting hole location is on a piece of paper. Mark the hole locations and attach with tape to plate ( after you center it, of course ), and drill the holes ( in my case on the 5100MP they are 3mm ) a little bigger ( 3.2mm ) than the bolts to be used. Check for fit. Check that no vent or air holes are blocked ( read further below and you will see ).

Then drill holes for the bracket to frame bolts 6mm ( similarly a little bigger that the bolt size 6.2mm).

As in the post about the Power supply, get more washers than just needed ( these are also 18mm, but for the M6 bolts ) and M6x20mm bolts.

I used 3 M6 in a horizontal pattern - did not follow some specific distance between them, just two near the end and one in the middle.

As seen I had to add spacers, because the mounting plate covered a vent hole on the bottom of the projector and also to clear the washers and nuts used to mount the plate to the frame.

I had to also countersink the M3 x 25mm bolts a little(2mm)with a 5mm drill bit, so they screw in further in the projector frame and I have a more secure projector-plate connection.

And the end result looks like this:

Nicely done! Now you can get that screwdriver with Absolute.