Friday, January 20, 2012

Seems most of you have not seen it

Please look up next to the "About me" and "Other 3D printers" pages - There it is. It's a new section "GALLERY".
Hope you like it.

Wednesday, January 18, 2012

First Fully Printed Object

I know I made an announcement and here is the start:

This is the first completely printed object at @43 microns in X and Y. The Z resolution is @25 microns.
The first layer of the base is 200 microns and 9 more layers @ 100 microns @ 8 seconds exposure to over cure the resin so it sticks to the glass better.

The time it took to print it is 2h 45m. It has about 1250 layers including the base, so speed is about 15mm per hour @25 microns.
There is a slight elongation defect since NO vertical compensation was applied and I need more supports. The moment that the inner supports started printing there is a stair step like defect.
It is smooth to the touch and as strong as the plastic from the videos.
It has not been post-cured. I took it off the printer and dropped it in Ethanol 95% - "Spiritus Aethylicus" - and stirred it around. After 10 min it was squeaky clean AND Disinfected LOL.

Went to bed last night @02:00 leaving this:

Only to wake up @6:30 with a result like so:

There are absolutely no problems with the New Build Base ( there will be a post about it ). It held strong and did not see any flex. Once I scraped the excess resin off and wiped most residue off it looks like this:

In the aethanol 95% it goes for 10 min whirl around. I used a small glass jar I had around.

 Here are the macro photos:

A close up of the slices:

Here is the link to the album with different photos:

3DLPrint - Ring Album

Hope you come back soon for more...

Get ready for the REVOLUTION!

...This space intentionally left blank...

Sunday, January 8, 2012

Post Curing and Close-Up Pictures...

Here is the UV Lamp I used for the post cure process and some closeup pictures of the first object printed in layers:

I bought the UV Money Detector for a few euros with a bad power cable and replaced it for small change.

The following picture is ( from left to right ) the Silicone VAT sample, The Teflon Sample and the Teflon Sample Build Base with long burn in Cycle:

You may recognize the first one as it broke in the Video :

The next one is pretty  smooth with the exception of small bubbles. Guess the resin should be left alone for an hour after the stirring and shaking:

Here is a closeup through a X45 mini microscope I had bought for 3-4 dollars from ebay:

 The slices are 10 x 0.1mm and the first one is 0.2mm.
And you can see the layer slices in the second one:

Close up of the Bubbles on the surface. Next time I will brush some resin on the glass before dipping it in the VAT with resin.

Hope you had wonderful holidays!
Cough - Cough - I know the people from the south hemisphere did!

Saturday, January 7, 2012

The Good, The Bad and The Ugly...

Ok, here goes:
The good... It works fantastic! You have seen the proof in the videos.
The Bad... The teflon lifts up and upon landing it is wrinkled. Needs to be restrained to the bottom of the VAT.
The Ugly...The force is not to be reckoned with. The HDPA build base and the
silicone did not make a strong connection and with the viscosity of the ED3 and  ED4 ( 1600@25C and 1080@25C respectively ) it came undone:

Again don't mess with "the force": It cracked the corner of the 5mm glass
silicone VAT I made when experimenting with it.

Lessons learned and will be corrected in the next VATs and Build bases.


From the mistakes we learn...

Happy Holidays!
Finally have some time to write in the build log.
Fernando (SpaceCaptain)  from the Yahoo group was king to send me small samples of different resins (4 ) before the holidays. I had tested mixing them and Dymax 9663 with Castin' Craft Transparent Amber and here are the results:

The problem I discovered is that not one of the resins was able to cure to a layer less than 0.5mm even at 0.5 seconds cure time. Either my projector is too powerful or the dye is not opaque enough. Also the Dymax did not like a high dye content - it could not cure to a solid like - only to uncured silicone consistency.

The mini VATs I cleaned by polymerizing the resin left inside with a full blast of all white and Isopropyl alcohol. No ill effects.

I did find one good thing - The 2505 burns out with only sooth left:
Before and after ( the wire is a AWG24 ):

 I have thought of using the used or fresh yellow (brighter one ) toner from a Xerox machine:
It did not work because it was filled with some Ferric particles and the pigment did not get distributed evenly ( they are Synthetic Wax ).

And finally some more random pics:

Hope it is of some use to you.