Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Itching to publish!

Here it is! The VAT Tilt test X-axis. Did only a few layers, but watch the VAT tilting:

Good Night for me and Good Morning to the other side of the planet!

VAT-Tilt connection

It is one of the least, but not last thing left to do. The VAT to Tilt to X axis connection.
This is going to be long. Time me if you want. Start:
 Mark 7mm from each side  ( you can pick another number as long as it is a sacred one ).
Drill with M4 bit and a vacuum cleaner at this point to avoid getting chips in unwanted places and shortening something.

Assembled an L shape bracket with a bolt like so:

 Cut 2 x M4 threaded rod pieces in 125mm lengths:

Assemble the rods and L shape into:

Bend the rods to be perpendicular to the Meccano piece:

Now attach the Meccano piece with some M5 Inbus:

I had to recenter my X- axis to be in the center of the rods.

Finally bolt together, tighten and adjust with top lock nuts.

Phew! That was a fast one. Took me longer to stop and take photos, than to actually assemble.


Deltron and Meccano Marriage

Deltron and Meccano must have had a marriage some time ago without us knowing.
 See the following:

 I wonder when was Deltron actually founded?!

Monitor Mounting

After some re-organization and clean up I decided to slide the PC behind the printer and mount an old monitor to the machine.
This is how it looks now:

Took some 20mm X 150mm strips for wood framing brackets and bent the ends into hooks.
End result is :

VAT-Frame correction

I have missed something during the VAT-Frame build. Someones sharp eye pointed it out.
Between the U shape profile VAT base and the L shape sides of the VAT frame there are small screws that protrude.

It is a set screw with a M4 collar. It is used to set the VAT to be parallel and at a specific start distance from the build base.
This is what it looks like only smaller:

The inside diameter is M4, but the screw itself is M2.5 thread. The bolt is 30mm x M2.5
Sorry! and Thanks for pointing that out.

L-Bracket for build base

Scored some 80/20 L-shape brackets. Finally! Four pieces to be exact.

I bought some M8 bolts too. I can start the Build base tomorrow.
Wish you have a great build day!

Monday, November 21, 2011

3DLPrint X and Z Test

The title does not give it all away, but the following does! :

I'm running the X and Z without limit and home switches, but have been around enough to be confident in my abilities. Your mileage may vary. If you do not know how to operate CNC machines safely , I suggest you get someone who does, to do it. If you do not know how to be safe around electricity, get someone who does, to do it.

The cycle is:
1-Go to Bottom  ( X -5 )
2-Go to TOP ( Z zero )
3-Go to work coordinates of Z zero - 10.
4-Slowly move to Z zero ( the last 10mm )
5-Slowly raise to X zero.
6- Display slide and display black screen
7-Go to X -5 then Z- (10 times the slice thickness )
8-Go to Z zero and then X to zero.
The first 10 slides are for the Base of the object to be printed. The rest are the object itself + supports ( if any ).

I'm sure it will create a stir!

Sunday, November 20, 2011

RTFM I always hear - Stepper Drivers

Yes! I have read it and it is much easier ( even easier if you have used IMS drivers before ).
A little bit of temporary wiring to make sure the Stepper drivers even work.

Make sure you read the manual of your stepper and calculate the max Amps per winding. If it is nor marked use V=I*R and solve it for your own case.
After that a little housekeeping and tidying up the wiring:

All is working! Meaning - no smoke came out of anywhere and nothing smelled funny.
Be safe around electricity!

X-axis mounted

As you know I'm using the DELTRON Linear LRS3-1. It is wider than the Bosch frame ( 40mm ) and it is not in the center of the printer. I have mounted it with only two of the 4 bolts.  Loosen the two nuts and slide the X axis extrusion straight down. Clamp you slide and mark, and drill your pilot holes. Drill with 4.5mm drill bit and tap with a 5mm thread. I used a 20mm Inbus to bolt it to the extrusion and fasten it to the frame.

Ok, I'll do this  to save another post with corrections:
I replaced the motor that is in the above pictures with another I had on hand:

The reason being, that last night when I hooked up the stepper drivers it was underpowered and stalled after numerous attempts to tune the motors. Also after a brief period of correct tuning I tested  some macro in Mach3 and the motor got very hot, very quick. So it was not meant to be.
The new one performed perfectly right off the start.

The title said Final, but... Silicone VAT

It never is final - Everything.
OK this post is the culmination of previous posts.
It is about the Silicone VAT. A continuation of : http://3dlprint.blogspot.com/2011/11/two-weeks-ago-i-took-5mm-soda-lime.html and the walls from http://3dlprint.blogspot.com/2011/10/time-to-setup-another-test.html
Once I have the Silicone walls and a coated Glass it is time to spread some silicone on the bottom of the walls and stick them together.

That's it! nothing more fancy. Just place another glass on top until dry and seal the gaps in the corners.

Thursday, November 17, 2011

Z-axis Mounting

So it continues... I just can't leave this one to the laws of gravity.

I did not find M3 or M3.5 Inbus (Allen head) in the local hardware shops, so ...

Found these 3mm x 10mm screws. They are 2,1mm between the threads, so picked a 2.4mm drill bit.

Used my cordless drill turning it slowly so no metal chips end on the ball screws of the slide.

Since the slide is 40mm wide and the aluminum extrusions are too, I just used a couple of clamps to hold it in place.

Try to drill in the center to be able to have a 0.3~0.5 mm play for adjustments.

I placed it on the flat marble plate and tightened the screws.

Wiring is next and I feel a video coming up in the next couple of weeks.


Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Silicone Time Capsule

Two weeks ago I took a 5mm soda-lime glass piece and spread some aquarium 100% silicone sealant on it.


2 pieces - 5mm 150mmx150mm ordinary glass

2 pieces - 10mm 110mmx70mm ordinary glass

2 clamps

1 tube of 100% Aquarium silicone.

1 piece of heat shrink  wrap large enough to cover 150mmx150mm and have a margin of about 3cm on all sides.

Spread silicone and cover with shrink wrap place the other 150mmx150mm glass on top and use the 10mm to spread the load and clamp.

If you get bubbles peel and start again. Detailed instructions available at the ChemShapes site HERE

Leave untouched for 2 weeks.

Today - Carefully removed the 10mm glass and clamps. Clamped on one of the 10mm pieces for a few hours to make sure silicone has cured - only to check.

Guess not. But a few hours later I managed to peel off the shrink wrap from the silicone and left it to set.

Some things take time, so prepare and experiment early on to be able to have something useful at the right time.


Z-axis Returns...

I have been testing resin and beautifying the printer, BUT I need to do some useful work. Say "Hello" to the:
For those that have good memory it might seem familiar.

Just a simple bolt on job. A lot of things have not been as easy as this in a while.

1. Take a NEMA17 bipolar motor.

2. Find a motor mount ( flange is 42mm x 42mm with bolt pattern 31mmx31mm ) for NEMA17 ( I begged A LOT a friend of mine that was once going to build a CNC Mini Mill, but ended up only a "Spinner" ).

3. Bolt the motor to the flange and file down the bolts of the motor to be flush with flange.

4. Source a 4mm x 5mm motor coupler from Ebay and secure it to the motor shaft (5mm)

5. Get 4  M3 x 16mm bolts and bolt the flange with motor onto the THK linear.

6. Carefully place the linear and motor on the upright and stand back.

7. Admire the work you've done. Now try to source M3.5 Imbus ( allen head ) bolts.

The pictures are in a new shade of pink - my wife likes them better that way. Right! Until I get back my camera from my wife I'll use an old Sony with the "pink" bug. Hope the female audience will be attracted to the project because of it.


Friday, November 11, 2011

What Will Happen If I...

I know you have asked yourselves this question and the answer resulted usually you ended up in trouble, but maybe not this time.

I decided to check whether the polymerized resin will burn out or melt for casting purposes. I placed some Teflon film ( yes, I have it and will post about it ) on the Ceramic stove top burner. Placed the screw with a blob of resin and raised the temperature slowly.  @100 C -  I saw no change in the Teflon film other that it went soft, but it kept its properties. @120 C, 130 C, 150 C, 180 C, 200 C, same thing except the resin started to get soft when in contact with the teflon film. I broke a piece of the resin and set it on top of the film. Raised to 250 C - the teflon kind of melted and adhered to the ceramic( but was not hard to damage it by moving the piece of resin around ) and the resin started to change color to deep yellow.

Up to 300 C and the teflon is still holding and repelling the resin from ruining my ceramic counter top:

@380 - 400 I gave up since the resin changed color to almost black and no melting has occurred - it stayed the blob shape that I originally broke off.

Scraping the teflon with a putty knife made it into white plastic -like shavings.  It protected the stove top even at the higher temperatures so well that :

My wife is never going to know or suspect anything like the above ever happened in the kitchen!



You know there sure is to be some in an endeavor such as this:

I managed to lean over some VAT with resin and soak my t-shirt sleeve , then I got polymerized to the side of my ribcage  in a hard blob.

I felt something pulling on me every time I reached over.

I thought it was my kid. LOL